N+1

That is the popular consensus as to how many bikes a cyclist needs. After two very shitty cycling seasons where I struggled to put even a fraction of my typical annual mileage behind me, I have decided that 2017 will be different. 2017 will be the year where bad roads, bad weather, and bad luck will no longer conspire against me. For this, it was decided,  a new weapon in the cycling arsenal was necessary – the all purpose “beater bike” as it is sometimes called. I call it my spring / fall / rain / gravel training bike.

My project started with taking stock of all the existing bits and pieces I have accumulated over the years, reading reviews, researching, making a “must have list” and shopping wisely. The boxes started arriving via FedEx, UPS and Canada Post. The weather remained nasty enough that I deferred getting my old Look 565 road worthy. Then one evening, while perusing eBay for deals, I spotted it…..

A 2016 Cinelli Experience Speciale. I cast my bid, and lady luck was with me. 5 days later it was mine.

Cinelli bikes in my experience (at least in North America) are not all that popular. While you can’t swing a dead cat without hitting a Cervelo ( whose headquarters are based here in Toronto in all fairness and of which I also own one) I think I have seen only one Cinelli on the road in the last decade.

My introduction to the Cinelli brand was probably like everyone else – the ubiquitous Cinelli forged aluminum quill stem – and that’s where it stayed. It wasn’t until I saw the crown jewel in the Cinelli bike line up in an issue of Bicycling –  the Xcr – that I realized Cinelli had a very interesting, almost esoteric line up of bikes noted for their peculiar names and unique graphics and paint schemes.

Incidentally, the Xcr is a frame I still desperately want to own and probably the coolest and sexiest bike in current production ATMO.

But what about the Experience? First off – it’s not carbon. It’s 7005 Columbus Airplane. The “Speciale” version, adds a full carbon FEL Columbus fork over the standard Experience with a carbon blade / aluminum steer tube. The FEL fork, BTW is the top of the line Columbus carbon fork that is used on the top tier Cinelli bikes like the Nemo Tig, the Stratofaster and the Xcr.

What attracted me to the frame was a nice mix of old vs new technology. The BB for instance, is good old 1.37 x 24 TPI by 68mm English, while the steer tube is a more modern 1.125″ to 1.5″tapered, and looks incredibly beefy. It has a 27.2mm seatpost. It can take up to 28mm tires or smaller 25mm with mudguards, exactly what you want in a wet-weather-exploring-gravel roads kind bike.

And, as if it was “meant to be” or “the icing on the cake” if you will – identical stack and reach dimensions of my current ride a 2012 Cervelo R3 in a Cinelli size L.

Next up, the build….

Revenge of BBRight

Argh !

Yet another of victim of “wandering cups”.

So, it would appear that regardless of my research,  attention to detail and following Henkel / Loctite instructions to the letter, my Campagnolo Ultra-Torque / BBRight adapter did NOT remain in place.

After 500km, I noted something changed in the sound and function of my Chorus drivetrain when it became noticeably louder on the big ring and lower rear cogs. Removal of the crank and inspection revealed the drive side (DS) cup moved 1 to 1.5mm outboard from the BBRight shell.

As I found it. Note the gap between the BBRight shell and the flange of the Campagnolo cup.

What to do….what to do ? Well, the only alternative was to knock out the offending cup and re-install. Luckily I had the tools and materials on hand to do the job. And I really had planned on riding this day. Damn.

Park Tool makes two specific BB30 bearing removal tools – the BBT-30.3 and the BBT-90.3. Unfortunately, the design of the Campagnolo Ultra-Torque cup does not permit the use of the BBT-30.3 which I would prefer to use. Luckily, my Ice Toolz “XEPERT” headset cup remover (basically a less expensive version of the Park RT-1) and some careful bending of the flared end did the job without any difficulty.

Ta-da ! Knocked out cup, and look at the residual Loctite 609 in the BBRight shell. Removal of said Loctite is a colossal PITA.

Residual Loctite in the BBRight shell. How to remove ? Read on !

I contacted Henkel Canada to inquire as to the best method of removing residual retaining compound. The nice technical service representative filled me on on some interesting details. One, Loctite retaining compounds are not cyanoacrylate based, they are dimethacrylate based. And two, nothing short of methylene chloride is going to soften a cured dimethacrylate easter enough to facilitate easy removal. He recommended a product called Loctite Chisel Paint Remover #135544

As an FYI, I’m from a chemical background so immediately I question the compatibility of methylene chloride on the carbon substate of the BBRight shell itself.

Why ? Because methylene chloride is a strong enough solvent to de-polymerize the epoxy used in the carbon layup. I decided to inquire to Cervelo directly. My hunch was confirmed.

Hi William, 

 Thanks for asking. DO NOT use methylene chloride based solvents on your Cervelo frame. Methylene chloride based solvents can soften the epoxy. Damage due to the use of methylene chloride based solvents is not covered under your warranty.

 

Instead, I recommend mechanical removal methods for cured LocTite. I’ve used an Exacto knife to manually scrape and chip cured LocTite from the bottom bracket shell. Other mechanical removal methods may also work. However, do not heat above ~40 degrees C or ~100 degrees F, which means no powertool-driven wire brushes, etc. 

So, armed with a beer, the radio, heat gun  and a flat razor blade, I proceeded to carefully heat and scrape, heat and scrape, heat and scrape……which is another reason why I like to work on my own bike. What bike mechanic is going to do the same ? I submit unless your name is Chris Froome, nobody.

About an hour and a half later I was done.

Clean !

Next steps: Clean shell with Loctite ODC Free Cleaner and De-Greaser, coat with 7649 Primer and…..wait….Loctite 609 or 680 ? Humm….good question. Originally, I used 609 and the cup moved. So I opted this time to use the higher strength 680….and failed. 680 is a significantly more viscus / thicker liquid. No, and I mean NO reasonable amount of force could seat the cup in the frame with 680 applied. So, whilst the Loctite cured, I scrambled around to knock out the cup jammed part way in the shell. Damn !

Once knocked out, I quickly used Acetone to try and clean up the semi cured Loctite and….you guessed it…..heat and scrape, heat and scrape the remaining material out of the shell. Another 30 minutes of my life wasted.

Some helpful hints for those following: While metal ions are needed for Loctite to cure on passive surfaces (Aluminum, Carbon), you realistically only need to prime one surface unless you want a VERY high cure speed. This could have been why I have had problems in the past – essentially the retaining compound is setting up while I am pressing the cup. I would recommend only priming the shell, letting it dry,and applying the Loctite to the cup.

Third times a charm. Hopefully.